Luxury always feels best when it’s earned, so mountain biking the Queen Charlotte Track is perfect preparation for relaxing in its lodges. Our journey begins with a boat ride through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds to Ships Cove, one of Captain Cook’s favourite anchorages. From there it’s a steep climb up, followed by a rattling descent over rock, mud and tree root, putting my mountain biking skills to the test and an exhilarated smile on my face. With 71 view-drenched kilometres, this is one of the longest pieces of continuous single track in the country, made even more appealing by the fact riders can send their luggage ahead by boat. Many experienced mountain bikers do the whole track in two days, or even one, racing up and down the hills with finesse. But those of us with less time in the saddle, prone to pushing their bikes up hills and gripping the brakes down them, three days is a better bet. We’re on a budget package that balances the mud, sweat and muscle ache of the ride with the hot showers, good food and comfy beds of a lodge, staying our first night in the backpackers of Punga Cove Resort – ...